Chicago

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Having lived in the US for my entire adult life, it’s amazing to me that I had never been to Chicago!  A total foodie city, it had been on my bucket list forever.  As in recent years, I found myself free for a few days after Christmas, as did my brother Luke.  “Want to go on a trip somewhere with me?”, I asked back at in November. “Sure” was the reply.  So then came the quest to find the perfect place for two siblings in their forties to spend a few days together.  “How about Chicago?”, I texted him one day.  His response was a resounding “yes!”.  Decision made! Both of us have worked in the restaurant business for most of our careers so far, so heading to a city chock full of amazing restaurants was perfect.  A couple of days later, a text to Kerry and Bart asking them if they wanted to come too, resulted in them booking within hours!

The advantage of traveling to Chicago in winter, is that it’s low season for hotels.  Book on Cyber Monday and you can snag a great deal for a luxury hotel for the same price as an average 3 Star.  The obsessive researcher that I am, after days of looking, I landed on The Hotel Gwen smack in the middle of the city, just north of the river and adjacent to the Magnificent Mile.  Newly renovated, the former Conrad Hotel is now part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection.  Named for the Sculptor whose work is a prominent feature in the lobby, the hotel is chic with an Art Deco flair found in the many details of its decor. We loved it.  Gorgeous heavenly beds and spa-like bathrooms, friendly staff, a great bar and even a curling ice and little chalet on the patio overlooking the city!  I love beautiful hotels.  I appreciate luxury.  And I especially do so when acquired for less than $150 a night!

 

So now for the main theme of our trip…..FOOD!  Luke and I arrived a day earlier than the others and after a good flight and a 40 minute Lyft ride to the hotel, we were ready for a bite to eat.  Across the street from the Gwen, was the famous Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab.  I had read about their excellent happy hour and as if by magic, we arrived on the dot at 2:00, the start of it.  Moscow Mules, Buffalo Cauliflower and a petit Shrimp Po’boy, fortified us.  We then had a nice walk around the area, realizing how much there was right outside our front door.  Great shopping and tons of restaurants albeit somewhat touristy.

The evening was the best part of our day and indeed one of the highlights of our trip.  An old friend of Luke’s, Scott Worsham, who along with his lovely wife Sari, owns two restaurants in Chicago and invited us to meet him at their newest place, Bar Biscay in West town, recently nominated for a 2019 Jean Banchet Award for Best New Restaurant. A sleek modern restaurant in a more residential neighborhood, Chef Johnny Anderes cooks food inspired by the “simple, direct approach of Basque cuisine and the classic rusticity of the French Countryside”.  My kind of food. We were in for such a treat.

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Firstly, there is nothing like being reunited with an old friend, so to witness Scott and Luke catching up after so many years was a pleasure in itself.  To do so accompanied by a veritable journey through the menu and wine and drinks list was perfectly divine.  We started with Anchovy Toast, Razor Clams with Radish, Garlic butter and Toast, and Manchego Gougeres with Garlic Aioli washed down with a lovely white wine.  Then, on to Veal Sweetbreads with puréed parsnip and maple-espellette glaze, Cockles in sherry and paprika butter served with a crusty baguette, then I believe a salad.

 

On hearing that I planned to resume my tee-total life after the trip Scott declared that we must drink something good with our Braised Oxtail (that reminded Luke and I of our grandmother’s version), Confit Carrots, Tilefish and Chorizo stuffed Peppers.  A gorgeous Bordeaux was chosen. There are few things in life that make me happier than experiencing that perfect marriage of food, wine, atmosphere and the company of others.  A celebration of flavor, carefully crafted combinations and great banter.  The best part of which is that the owners and their SUPERB crew, are taking you on that ride, showing their exquisite artistry. Brilliant.  I know there are literally thousands of restaurants to choose from in this city but I instantly fell in love with this place.  I wish them all kinds of success as they certainly deserve it!  I can’t wait to go back and try their other restaurant, mfk, as well as coming back here!

 

After a blissful slumber in our double queen bedded room with a view of the Magnificent Mile, and countlessly recalling the dishes we had sampled and how fabulous our evening was, we turned our thoughts to Kerry and Bart’s arrival.  We greeted them at the lovely bar in the hotel lobby and after checking in, we headed out to do what we felt was an obligatory food experience…the famous Chicago Deep Dish Pizza.  We found ourselves at Pizzeria Due, at the bar with beer and red wine, sampling their meatballs and garlic bread while the famous pizza was being prepared.  They take 45 minutes. Was this my favorite food experience of the trip? Probably not, but it was certainly fun to sit at the bar in this loud but cozy place and soak up the atmosphere along with the 5,000 calories that surely each slice contained.  The four of us split a medium size and couldn’t finish it!  It was certainly decadent; a very thick almost pastry-like crust filled with cheese, tomato sauce, sausage and pepperoni.  So, so heavy… tasty but now that I’ve done that, it’s checked off the list and I can continue on to other delicacies.

 

A walk was needed after that indulgence so we headed to the Navy Pier area.  On our way we truly understood why this place is called the Windy City!  Freezing wind means that warm coats, hats and gloves are essential.  We needed the walk and it was nice to see the lake and view the skyline.  Navy Pier had lots of shops, a tropical garden (?!), a big Ferris wheel and a Children’s Museum.  When we had seen enough we headed back to the sanctuary of the hotel bar to enjoy the delicious cocktails.

 

For dinner, we attempted to get into the Purple Pig but the hostess rather proudly told us that it was a 2.5 hour wait….thanks, but no thanks!  So we opted for Shaw’s Crab House for martinis, two dozen oysters and bowls of clam chowder in their more casual Oyster Bar. Perfect!

 

Just as I research hotels to death, I of course do the same for restaurants. I do not just go straight for the number one rated restaurants, give me a smaller, independently owned place over a large corporate franchise ANY day.  I had found out about Lula’s and was happy to get Scott and Sari’s endorsement for my choice.  Famous for their brunch for which they don’t take reservations, we hopped in a Lyft on Saturday morning for the 15 minute ride out to Logan Square.  Located on a wide avenue with grand houses, it was great to get out of the city centre into a neighborhood.  As expected, there was a wait, so we added our name to the list and checked out the local bookstore a few doors away.  We were greeted by a parking lot of strollers inside and the sound of music coming from a kids story time hour here.  Quite charming.  After a couple of purchases we headed back to Lula’s for Bloody Mary’s made from scratch and deemed “nice and clean” by our experts aka Bart and Luke.  We were seated shortly thereafter and proceeded to enjoy an outstanding brunch.  The key to success in most businesses is attention to detail.  This place has it in its drink ingredients, the art on the wall, the cool expert service and oh my, the food…..freshly made pastries followed by Royale sandwiches with the addition of bacon for the guys, a beautiful White Sweet Potato Hash for Kerry, and Smoked Lake Trout Scramble with the crispiest potatoes for me.   Sublime, we were all ridiculously happy with our choices. At the end I ordered a pot of tea, and even that was impeccably served, down to the server letting me know to please let it steep for three and a half minutes.

 

Our only downfall was our plan to visit the Institute of Art after this boozy brunch! Whilst a nap was likely in order, we battled on regardless! A quick breezy stop at the “Bean” revived us somewhat.  The only place which felt truly crowded and touristy during our trip. The Institute, however, was everything and more!  One could spend days there.  Bart and Luke opted for a shorter tour, ducking out to search for football viewing and beer….Kerry and I stayed on to enjoy the Contemporary wing which looked out on the skyline with its window frames mimicking the buildings.  Very cool.  Definitely need to go back. The Drag Docent was a fantastic addition to the experience!  We loved it all.

 

 

 

A Facebook comment by our friend Denise lead us to the lobby of the nearby Palmer House Hotel.  Wow!  So beautiful.  Well, most of it anyway.  The modern addition of escalators was a less than perfect choice despite its necessity?!  We thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere though and had yet another cocktail…

 

 

 

Dinner tonight was another Facebook comment suggestion by our friend Terry.  Bart had really wanted to have an authentic Italian dinner.  This we found at Quartino’s.  A huge two-story bustling restaurant a short walk from our hotel.  Yes, the food was fabulous, but the best part of this meal was watching Bart in his element, ordering up a storm, reviving his Italian and clearly taking a trip down memory lane from his time spent in a Italy.  This is what eating is all about.  The joy of the time, the place, the company and the tastes.  How it makes you feel, transcending you to a happy place.  We ate a ridiculous amount of food, without complaint! Antipasti to start followed by Broccolini, a delicious Arugula Salad with orange and hazelnuts, Beef Carpaccio, then Linguine with Clams, Gnocchi with Arugula Pesto, Braised Pork Shank…..AND a pizza!!!!  Pure gluttony.  One would think that there would be no room for dessert, but we bravely ordered some and loved our Tiramisu and had hysterics when Kerry bit into her cannoli and the icing sugar exploded over her, and Luke.  Oh and there was wine…of course.  What a great day!

 

 

Luke was determined to have a classic Chicago Hot Dog, and we achieved this the next day, at Portillo’s, an institution here.  It’s a large place with just counter service so as Bart and Luke ordered hot dogs and Italian Beef sandwiches, Kerry and I grabbed them goldfish bowl beers from the bar counter where the menu included Beer, Wine….and Mai Tai’s!?  Not sure about the story behind that…. We lovingly devoured our classic dogs; sliced onion, sliced tomato and a pickle with chili on the side.  The Italian Beef sandwiches were delicious too, as were the fries!  What a well oiled operation, we were in and out of there, happy as we could be, in about 40 minutes.  We grabbed a Lyft to head to the river for our Architecture Boat Tour.

 

Were we quite mad to do a boat tour in these temperatures?!  Quite possibly, but the tour was fantastic, and packed.  It was also luckily on the only sunny day of our trip.  Our guide was great (he’s a therapist when he’s not a tour guide) and we got a wonderful hour-long overview of the magnificent architectural styles that are represented here. The buildings towered above us, gleaming in the sunlight.  We absolutely loved it despite almost freezing to death.  It is such a beautiful city and seeing it from the canals was the perfect way to do so.

 

We returned to the hotel and the guys decided to go in search of a pub to watch football again.  Kerry and I opted for quiet time before the grand finale of our culinary adventure!  We met up with Scott and Sari at La Frontera, a Rick Bayless establishment serving traditional Mexican fare with modern interpretations.  Having visited Austin in September, Kerry and I had fallen in love with the authentic higher-end Mexican cuisine that we found there.  La Frontera was the first of several restaurants that Chef Bayless owns.  Naturally, we hit the bar first and while we didn’t go for their famous $30 Splurge Margarita, we all tried various other kinds.  I had a Mango Picante, followed by the Champagne Margarita.  The latter was served in an oversized champagne flute, topped off with Taittinger Champagne.  I kid you not.  Couldn’t let up on the decadence, not when this was the grand finale, right?

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It’s funny, I’m usually a bit of a control freak when it comes to food ordering, but for most of this trip, other people took care of it.  And you know what?  It was great.  So fun to sit back and have things appear in front of you.  Scott commandeered the wine list, not only ordering a lovely Albarino which balanced with the food superbly, but also shots of Mezcal and a tomato juice concoction which arrived in separate champagne flutes.  More decadence!  A dozen oysters and their Ceviche Trio appeared.  I love ceviche and tasting three different kinds was a treat; the Classic Frontera included Hawaiian albacore, lime, tomatoes, olives, cilantro the green chile.  The Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche Verde was combined with avocado, cucumber, jicama, serrano and onions.  The Tuna Ceviche Tropical consisted of Hawaiian yellowfin tuna, fresh Mexican Papaya, spicy salsa roja, jicama and avocado.  Delightful.  We also enjoyed two-bite Tostadas de carnitas, Puebla-style chicken enchiladas and baked cheesy cauliflower.  So much fun to indulge in so many flavors and share that experience.  When two slices of their Chocolate Pecan Pie with Kahlua whipped cream appeared, our decadent repast was complete.  Good grief.  What a meal in a great, colorful and lively restaurant, oozing with flavors and fun!

 

While Kerry and Bart decided that they had reached their limit, Scott suggested one last stop.  So where does one finish a decadent food tour of Chicago?  In a dive bar, of course! This is where it pays to be with a local, we would never have had this experience on our own.  Rossi’s is, I understand, a bit of an institution.  A full bar, no food, one bartender, cash only, a juke box and the walls are plastered with mementos showing its history.  It opens at 7 am.  Closes at 4 am, I believe.  Oh, if those walls could talk.  I nursed one drink and happily chatted with Sari while Luke and Scott talked away until we had all simply reached the point where we simply had to retire.  It was a really fun way to finish off another wonderful evening and yet another great experience.

 

It’s an understatement to say that this was a wonderful trip.  We had an absolute blast and can’t wait to go back.  To spend time with my brother, especially at this time in our lives, was a really lovely thing to be able to do.  Having Kerry and Bart along for the ride was the icing on the cake.  I realize that we saw just one side of this magnificent city, but boy did we love it.  Upon my return home, the boys and I watched Anthony Bourdain’s Chicago and saw a very different but fascinating side to the city.  I feel like we’ve only scratched the surface which means now I’m itching to return.  Good times, good eats, good company… my favorite way to end a year!  We’ll be back.

 

LINKS:

The Gwen, A Luxury Collection Hotel

Bar Biscay

Pizzeria Due

Shaw’s Crab House

Lula Cafe

Quartino

Portillo’s Hot Dogs

La Frontera Grill

 

 

 

 

 

2017: My Top Ten Food Experiences

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I woke up on New Year’s Day 2017 in New York City.  My first meal of the year was Steak Frites at Le District by the waterfront in Lower Manhattan.  Little did I know that 2017 was going to take me to some places I had never been and encounters that I could never have imagined.   And I’m not talking about traveling.  I decided to review my year of food by picking 10 experiences/themes, in random order:

ONE:  @frommyporchtoperu

I embraced Instagram this year and have loved it.  Yes, I’m that obnoxious person that posts food photos.  I love it!  It’s fun and I have drawn endless inspiration from other foodies along the way.  After my Breast Cancer diagnosis this summer, one of the first things I thought about was: what could I take control of during treatment and in the future?  One evening, whilst grasping for inspiration, I found it on Netflix in the form of the documentary Forks Over Knives.  I was sold.  It all made so much sense.  Control what you put in your mouth and you can tackle what ails you.  It became my mission alongside the necessary medical treatments.  I found it fascinating to change the whole concept of what food meant to me.  Me….a vegan??!!!  Good grief.  A few months later, I can report that I’ve had lapses but ultimately it’s a lifestyle that works for me, in my unique way.  I kind of see a “Pesce-vegan” thing working.  I just can’t give up oysters.  They are just such a huge pleasure in life, right?  And lobster, crab, shrimp, mussels……. I used Instagram as a method of expressing my creativity, but also my accountability.  So for all of you who encouraged and acknowleged that, I thank you.  It meant an awful lot

 

 

TWO & THREE:  DATE NIGHTS

Breast Cancer aside, 2017 also brought some romance into my life.  While it didn’t stay the course, I’ll be forever thankful that this lovely man came into my world.   We had been dating just four months when I received my diagnosis.  When I called to tell Andy the news, I told him that I absolutely didn’t expect him to stick around because it was too much to ask.  He was horrified and showed up at my appointment with the Surgeon the next day.  Yes, he is that kind of guy.  He breathed life into me while it momentarily felt like I was losing it.  We ate in lovely places, had some fabulous experiences and I think I can speak for us both when I say we learned a lot from each other.  The way to this girl’s heart is to make dinner reservations and that he did many times!  He even tolerated me taking pictures of our food.  There are many to choose from but I think my two favorites were these two.  The first was dinner at The Boathouse in Rockett’s Landing where we had a table on the deck overlooking the river.  We ate our oysters, the AMAZING Burratta Salad and perfectly Seared Scallops while watching a huge storm roll in.

 

The second restaurant was Dutch & Co, which I already dedicated a whole blog piece to, but it bears repeating.  Beautiful, innovative food in a great space.

 

 

FOUR:  Eating and sipping on my Porch

Despite being pretty gregarious and loving to entertain, I treasure my alone time on my porch.  During warmer months, I’ll sit there with a cup of tea in the morning and often I’ll come home for lunch and enjoy some quiet time.  As it’s west-facing, the evening sun hits it, which in the summer makes it brutal but on cooler spring and fall days, it’s perfect.  Below is a picture of a bowl from Local Vibe Cafe, a new favorite of mine that I plan to write about in more detail soon. The food is delicious, healthy and so beautifully colorful.  Eating it in the sunshine on my porch was just a delightful experience.  Also pictured is a glass of bubbly I enjoyed one warm Friday evening, the perfect way to start the weekend.

 

 

FIVE: Camden’s

Andy Howell, my longtime friend and catering partner is the owner of Camden’s Dogtown Market, so I feel a little bit like I’m a part of the place.  He has created beautiful food for many years in various different restaurants that he has owned.  I ate here a number of times this year, but one of my favorite dinners was the pre-Valentine’s Wine Tasting.  Another meal that already has a piece on here in its own right.  I had two truly “aha” moments when I drank two wines that I don’t normally care for on their own, but paired with the food, sprung to life for me.  That moment when you get schooled in the most fabulous way….yes!   The first wine was Complicated Chardonnay which he paired with a Crab Quesadilla with Peach Salsa, a glorious marriage of flavors.  The second was Rosa Regale which he paired with a dark chocolate pate, ricotta cheese and a pine nut cookie.  Quite possibly one of the loveliest dessert combinations I’ve ever had.

 

It was a tough year at Camden’s though, as Alix, the front-of-house manager, tragically passed away.  I spent many an evening at the bar, chatting to her, trading advice and gossip.  She loved fashion, hair, make-up, art, music and relished giving me dating advice over the couple of years that I knew her.  She even persuaded me to dye my hair red.  I like to think I was the older, wiser one dispensing words of advice, having more years behind me, but in retrospect, she was wiser than me in many ways.  She lived for the moment, spoke freely (often punctuated with profanity) and charmed everyone she served.   She made me laugh!  When she was suddenly taken from us, it was so shockingly sad and left such a painfully huge void.  So much so, that Andy stopped serving dinner for a few weeks.  You never know who might have a big impact on you and sometimes we sadly don’t realize it until they are gone.  Alix mattered, she touched many lives and I know I’m certainly the better for having known her.

 

SIX:  LOBSTER AT CHAUNCEY CREEK  Kittery, Maine

I have been here many, many, times over the years.  So many great memories.  This time, it was just Polly and I, on a perfect warm Fall day.  Steamers, hardshell pound-and-a-quarter lobsters, a bottle of Chardonnay…..sitting on the dock.  Always my favorite culinary experience.  What a treat.

 

 

SEVEN: BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS

My birthday fell right in the middle of my radiation treatments, but I celebrated nonetheless with my lovely friends.  I turned 45.  Moving into the latter part of this decade, I know I’ll continue to face more challenges but hope that perhaps they may be a little less dramatic than those I’ve faced in the first half!  Ladies Night at home, then a weekend involving dinner at the The Brickhouse Run then a recovery brunch at Ammo with guava mimosas in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness month, was a great way to celebrate!

 

 

SEVEN:  BREAST CAKE EVER!

Radiation was a little more challenging than I thought it would be.  I’m still working on a blog piece about the experience as a whole.  My last treatment fell on Wednesday 1st November, our usual Ladies Night.  I had vowed to drink Veuve Cliquot to celebrate and that I did!  I was surprised with another delicious vegan chocolate cake from Buttermilk Bakery, decorated in the most appropriate way, with one red boob.  We drank plenty of good champagne and it was warm enough to sit on the porch.  Despite being exhausted, sore and so ready for healing, I felt buoyed once again by the love and support of these incredible women.  A night I’ll never forget!

 

 

EIGHT:  WEDDINGS 

When in the throes of divorce, it’s kind of strange to be involved in working in at least a dozen weddings a year!  But each is always different, lovely and interesting in its own way.  Andy and I catered three this year; a large outdoor wedding at Glenward Gates in Carson on a gorgeous Saturday in May, a lovely intimate small Fall wedding at Folly Castle, and last, but not least, our friends Kate and Mark’s party to celebrate their recent nuptials.  I have known Kate since she was a baby so to be part of this was really special.  No gifts, no formalities, they just wanted friends and family to gather and celebrate with them.  They had a couple of specific requests for food but otherwise left it to Andy and I to come up with a menu.  It’s always fun when you are given creative and artistic license.  It snowed that day but it was cosy, warm and festive inside the house.  Joan and Lawrence have traveled the world so we used a lot of the gorgeous pottery that they have collected.  A joyful occasion that was an honor to be a part of.

 

 

NINE:  PIZZA NIGHT CHEZ JOYAUX

Our friends Alain and Aimee have, without a doubt, the coolest abode in Petersburg. Alain built a pizza oven this year and on a unusually warm evening a couple of weeks ago, they invited us over for pizza.  Just being in their house is an adventure but they are truly dear friends.  My cousin Georgia, Geoff and Jake had arrived for Christmas and so we all walked over there and were in for a treat..  I think what made this experience particularly memorable was the interaction with the youngest members of our party.  Jake at age 8 just loved the pizza making process, as did Rory and Ben.  But it was our conversations whilst eating it that really made an impression.  The emerging of powerful personalities with opinions and plenty to contribute.  I loved that Jake kept whispering to me, asking when and if the subject had changed.  He desperately wanted to keep up.  A delicious evening.

 

 

TEN:  CHRISTMAS 

Having family join us from England for Christmas was the best gift ever.  My mother would tell you that Geoff taking over the cooking was the icing on the cake.  He produced a gorgeous dinner of Rib Roast, Yorkshire Pudding, Leeks in Bechemel Sauce, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots and Peas.  Finished off with Traditional Christmas pudding, of course!  There’s nothing like family and to have them here with us, especially after a tough year, made it joyful indeed.  The addition of dear friends, plenty of wine, Christmas Crackers and Charades by the fire completed our festivities.  I felt the most at peace this Christmas than I have in years.

 

 

It was a huge year!  But once again, I’m reminded of the pleasure of sitting around a table with great company eating fabulous food.  I’m grateful for the many wonderful experiences I had doing just that in 2017, with the host of phenomenal people I am surrounded by.  Here’s to a great 2018, cheers!

 

Celebrating Love in New England

 

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I don’t really need an excuse to go to New England for a weekend, but a lovely wedding is the best kind.  Three weeks ago, I squeezed in my 10th radiation treatment before heading to RIC.  Thankfully I was feeling great!  I always get a thrill arriving at Richmond Airport to go somewhere, but when the destination is Boston, I’m particularly tickled.   Somehow I’ve always arrived there on a clear beautiful day regardless of the season and September 29th was no exception.  I was heading up for Steve’s cousin Tim’s wedding in Dover, NH.

My mother encouraged me to go, and kindly took over teenager and puppy duty for the weekend so that I could join Polly for all the festivities.  I caught the S&J bus service from Boston Airport to Dover, fantastic!  Polly picked me up, we checked in to the Hampton Inn and before we knew it we were invited to a fun dinner with the Nordahl clan.  I sat next to Yuri who had much in common with me and we had a great conversation.

 

Breakfast the next morning saw us reunited and newly acquainted with family and friends.  Whilst we should have rushed out to see the delights that I’m sure Dover has to offer, chilling in our room on a drizzly day was a lovely alternative.  Once primped and ready, we headed over to St. Joseph Catholic Church.  It’s always lovely to arrive at a wedding where you know you are getting ready to see a whole load of people you love and eagerly anticipate the nuptials of two of them.

Catherine and Tim are one of those couples that just fit.  Even the Priest affirmed this when he said that upon meeting them in preparation for marriage he knew it was for real because Tim wouldn’t stop looking at Catherine.  They are both in caring professions, he’s a Physical Therapist and she’s a School Psychologist.  Both are the sweetest, mildest-mannered people you could ever meet.

I don’t like to take photos during a wedding ceremony so there won’t be any in here, but I’ve seen some lovely ones!   Needless to say the bride was radiant, the groom was handsome and we were all thrilled to bits for their union.  I’ve been to many a wedding and worked many more than that and this was the real deal.

Transportation was provided from the hotels to the Reception and I couldn’t have been more thrilled that it was a yellow school bus!  A first for this Brit!  We wound our way through the New Hampshire countryside that was starting to show the telltale signs of Fall, before arriving at the lovely Lodge at Parker Mountain. Catherine’s uncles own the beautiful property in Strafford and, despite the overcast skies, it’s a stunningly gorgeous place.  A cabin overlooking a pond, between which a huge tent was pitched.  As it was a chilly day, guests were drawn to the inside, next to the roaring fire.  I believe this is typically rented out as an Airbnb, what a treat that would be!

 

With a bar stocking signature cocktails, beer and wine, the party got started!  A delicious array of hors d’oeuvres were laid out on the porch for us all to enjoy while watching the official photos being taken down by the pond.  The weather was overcast but the mood was most definitely sunny!  Also, let’s face it, the photos are usually better in this lighting too.  An important detail to add at this point is that the porch was decorated with strings of origami cranes, ONE THOUSAND of them!  Marie and Caitlin had painstakingly made them over a period of several months, a symbolic gift to Tim and Catherine for good fortune.

 

After the cocktail hour, we were ushered to the tent to find our assigned seating.  The wedding party was introduced to much applause and Tim and Catherine took their first dance.  Just lovely, followed by Catherine dancing with her father and Tim with his mother, Marie.  Justifiably proud and happy parents.

 

I particularly love this photo as it shows the joy we all felt!

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So while the focus is of course on the couple, we do have to talk about the food too, right?  They opted for the newly popular family style service of dinner.  Something I love!  No long lines for a buffet and no being confined to one set plate of food.  Instead, delicious platters and bowls of food that included all food groups and diets.  I’ve already talked about platters of food in this blog, but I’ll say it again: it promotes and celebrates the shared experience of enjoying food.  They chose well; sliced beef, chicken, a veggie pasta dish, roasted rosemary potatoes and haricots verts.  It’s always great when there’s wine on the table too!  Kudos to the excellent catering staff, diligently working out of a truck and a tent.  As someone who caters weddings, I know the challenges.

 

Tim’s best man, his brother Patrick, made a lovely speech before raising a toast to the newlyweds.  Heartfelt and loving from what I know is a close relationship.  And then it was time to dance!!  And yes, we did!  So much fun!  Here’s a selection of photos to show the rest of this lovely celebration:

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The school buses returned to pick us up in shifts and Polly and I took the second one.  We were given treat bags for the ride home; a freshly baked cookie, a bottle of water and an apple.  What a lovely touch and the perfect end to a most beautiful day!

So, did Polly and I party on upon our return to Dover?  Ummm…nope.  Went to bed!  Slept beautifully and then enjoyed a lively breakfast catching up with everyone the “morning after”.  It was great to chat and laugh and have one last chance to hear about how everyone’s lives were going.  I sat next to Caitlin and Cliff who had traveled from Nairobi for the wedding and our conversation ended up with an invitation for the boys and I to go and visit them and they offered to help book a safari….uh oh.  Don’t have to ask me twice to go pretty much anywhere!  But the thought of a safari with my boys next summer had me racing to look at fares and guide books.  Fingers crossed I’ll be blogging from our Kenyan adventure next August!

The one thing I always have to do when I go to New England is, of course, to eat lobster.  I had let Polly know that and on Sunday morning, asked her how far we were from York, Maine.  Less than 30 minutes!!  My request to pay a visit down memory lane was instantly granted and after saying our goodbyes, we took the back roads to York.  It was a perfect New England fall day and we wound our way through lovely countryside to the place that Polly and Ed used to call home and a place I had adopted as a favorite, chock full of memories.  I first met Ed and Polly there, Steve and I drove all night from Virginia when I was just 20 years old.  We had many Thanksgivings there, always taking a frigidly cold walk by the beach before indulging in pie.  Ed and Polly threw us an engagement party there.  We brought our boys up here pretty much every summer.  The last time I had visited, 3 years ago, we came up to let Ed and Polly know that we had reached what would turn out to be an insurmountable issue in our marriage, not a happy time.  However, on this day, with Ed surely looking down on us and smiling, we drove to all our favorite spots and had the most lovely day.  Time does, and can, heal.

 

Lunch just had to be at Chauncey Creek.  An absolute favorite.  My grandparents went there, many friends from Virginia were taken here.  My boys tried lobster for the first time in high chairs here. So here we were, just the two of us this time, enjoying a perfect sunny day, sipping wine and eating pound-and-a-quarter lobsters and steamers, whilst enjoying each other’s company.   Polly had been on the road for 5 months cross country and around Canada visiting National Parks, mostly by herself, processing her grief at the loss of her beloved Ed.  When describing the experience, she concluded that it had made her realize and believe that she “could do anything by herself”.  Music to my ears.  It’s a powerful thing to discover about yourself  and I couldn’t be more thrilled for her.  It would have been easy for her to have stayed home and mourn, but she hit the road and 15,000 miles later, had stories and experiences that will propel her into this new chapter.  Pretty awesome.

 

We hated to leave but it was time for me to get myself to Boston Airport, using the shuttle once again, this time from Portsmouth.  What a beautiful weekend celebrating the start of marriage for a truly lovely couple, as well as a gorgeous trip down memory lane.

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Showing up for 24 hours in Roanoke

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“Call and Response” and “Every Shadow you Make”, Aimee Joyaux

I firmly believe in the philosophy that half of life is simply about showing up.

Our dear friend Aimee Joyaux, a brilliant artist, was selected to include two pieces of her work in the Homeward Bound exhibit at the Taubman Museum of Art in Roanoke, a juried show featuring only Virginia artists. The opening reception was on Friday night and what better reason than that to plan a quick jaunt to celebrate her, experience another city and enjoy great food, drinks and company.  Oh, and stay at the Hotel Roanoke.  A place I’d heard much about but had never been to.  Our party of 13 left for our destination at different times, our carload being the last, due to school pickup.  The drive down 460 was an easy one despite the 3 hour duration and as we approached Roanoke the sun was setting over the mountains.  Beautiful!  Upon arrival at the hotel,  we checked in to our lovely rooms on the Executive Level.  The advance party, Heather and Cherry, had stocked our room with wine so we were able to enjoy a quick glass before walking over to the Taubman.  On our way there we heard voices behind us and it was Alain’s son Daniel and his girlfriend Karin who had made the trip from D.C. to celebrate Aimee’s latest accolade of her amazing work.

Just seeing the Hotel Roanoke and experiencing the short stroll to the museum, I already knew that I loved this place!  The historic area is chock full of independently owned restaurants, shops and bars housed in historic and interesting buildings with a small town feel.  It was freezing outside so we happily entered the very warm museum, a thoroughly modern but not too imposing structure on the edge of the historic area.  Our tardiness meant that our time there was somewhat brief but we were thrilled to see Aimee’s pieces hanging in such a beautiful space.  Not only that, we got to see Ron Walton’s piece too!  Another Petersburg artist and owner of the Walton Gallery.  It was fascinating to see the different works of art, all by Virginia artists, all so distinctive and brilliant in their own way.  One of my favorite moments was when JV suddenly exclaimed to Kerry, “Mom, my favorite artist has work here!”  He had spotted the paintings by Richmond artist, Todd Hale, from a distance of about 50 feet and rushed over to admire them.  How many twelve year olds do you know like that?  Such a cool kid.

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There was never any doubt that a great dinner was going to be part of our itinerary.  We were also joined by another of tonight’s honored artists, a friend of Aimee’s, Alyssa Salomon. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from in Roanoke and we had secured a reservation at Lucky, a restaurant that describes themselves as French Country and American Comfort. Heather had pooled her contacts in the city to find this gem.  Definitely my kind of place!  We were seated at 2 big tables by the entrance which essentially gave us a space all to ourselves.  We were then treated to one of the best servers ever, Lauren, who we initially assumed was the owner.  She looked amazing and wouldn’t have been out of place at a cocktail party but more importantly than that, she knew the menu inside and out.  Not only the food but the craft cocktails.  Tonight’s special cocktail was Rumming with the Devil which included two types of Rum, Apricot, Five-spice and a concoction that apparently involved overnight fermentation of some ingredients in a coke bottle… I ordered one and it was certainly interesting!  Not my favorite drink ever but fun to experience and as tonight was all about art, we appreciated the artistry and creative process that went into it. We ordered a Bread Plate, Mussels, Duck Pate and a Cheese Board to accompany our drinks and loved it all.  The bread was accompanied with divine roasted garlic olive oil, goat cheese, nicoise olive tapenade and Basque olives.  The PEI mussels were suitably garlic laden, the duck pate was divinely smooth and luxurious with baguette, sweet onion chutney, pickled red onions and Dijon.  The cheese board was perfect.  Four types of cheese with an onion jam, candied walnuts, olives, drizzles of honey and baguette slices.

Cocktails and appetizers demolished, we moved on to wine and a variety of entrees.  Buttermilk fried chicken for all three boys and Heather, Gnocchi with Kale and Pesto for Kerry, gorgeous salads with Goat Cheese and Beets for Chana and Cherry, and I opted for two small plates.  Roasted Marrow bones with Charred Lemon and Fava Bean Hummus along with four Roasted Oysters with lemon, garlic and scallion breadcrumbs.  All delicious!  Along with top notch service in a delightful space, we had a fabulous experience.

Ben and JV have a new passion for playing pool and had discovered that there was a table in the pub at the Hotel Roanoke.  They begged us to see if they could go and play after dinner.  So, we began the 10 minute stroll back to the hotel trying to explain why it might not be possible for them to play as it was late on a Friday night and kids might not be allowed in the pub. However, upon our arrival there, a quick chat with the bartender confirmed that it was fine for them to play.  And so began a hilarious couple of hours that involved martinis and more wine for us ladies and several rounds of pool with a group of ACC football referees in town for a conference.  The refs were all hanging out by the pool table and when they saw the boys starting to play, quickly became their tutors and ultimately competitors.  They could not have been nicer and we all had a blast chatting away and playing pool. Until 1 am.  I know, kids and their Moms should really go to bed a lot earlier than that but life is for living and this was a fun experience all round.  Not an everyday occurrence despite the fact that my kids spent the first decade or so of their lives living above our pub.

Staying on the Executive Level gave us access to a lounge with refreshments.  In the morning this included a breakfast that provided us with much needed delicious sustenance after our late night; sausages, scrambled eggs, fruit, pastries, yoghurt and all the caffeinated beverages that we needed.  The lounge was overseen by a woman who was ALL business!  We got a 5 minute warning when breakfast was over and we were in no way going to question her.  I highly recommend upgrading to this level as the services included provided excellent added value.

Feeling a little more alive, we showered, packed and then sat in the gorgeous lobby, chatting and relaxing while JV and Ben enjoyed the pool table once again, but this time all to themselves and in the light of day.  The Hotel Roanoke is definitely my kind of hotel.  Upscale but not stuffy, traditional but with modern touches.  For example, the furnishings in the lobby were mostly traditional in their colors but modern in their lines.  I’m no interior design expert but I noticed the details and really appreciated them.

With what felt like the fiftieth game of pool completed, we headed out to explore.  We went into the delightful city market, weaved through the stands and shops of Market Street, chatting with vendors along the way.  You get a genuine feeling that keeping business local here is serious business.  I love that.  We purchased gorgeous locally made soaps, had hysterics in the kitchen store at all the fun quotes on napkins and tea towels, tasted delicious baked goods, bought great jewelry in a store that imported African and Asian crafts, marveled at all the Virginia products being sold in Eli’s, drooled over furniture at Shabby Love…the list goes on.

In need of a snack, we headed to the well known Roanoke Weiner Stand for hotdogs.  What a cool place, simple concept, great service, lunch for 4 under $20.  You can even get a $2 can of Bud or Bud Light if you so desired.  I did not.

 

After enjoying our hotdogs, we headed back to the hotel to enjoy the lobby for just a little bit longer and yes, the boys played pool…again!  We decided to end our stay with a quick drive up the mountain to the Star monument where you can enjoy an amazing view over the city and valley.  Much to JV’s horror, when we reached the iconic landmark, Kerry recalled her last visit to it.  Back in her college days, she and her then boyfriend had a date there and she decided to declare her love for him in grand style, by shouting it from the mountaintop!

Just being up in the mountains feeds my soul.  Give me them over the beach any day. Don’t get me wrong, I have no desire to climb them, but I love being surrounded by the majesty of them.  There are few places in the world that I have found more lovely than the mountains of Virginia.  I hadn’t explored this part of them before and it was a real treat.  I could quite easily live in Roanoke.  Beautiful scenery, great food, support of small businesses, a fabulous art museum and the essential requirement for any place I might even consider living in…an airport.  Can’t wait to go back.  We left the Star, winding our way back down the mountain and headed back along 460 on a lovely evening, happy to have experienced a terrific 24 hours in Roanoke.  Thanks, Aimee!

Like I said at the beginning, all kinds of things can happen in life when you simply show up.

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The Met, Martinis and Lower Manhattan

Thursday was a huge day despite not checking out of our hotel until about 11:30!  Robin was first up just after dawn and ventured out for a walk and then read in the lobby while the rest of us continued to sleep.  When we awoke, we were greeted by a text message from her asking if we would like cappuccinos.  Yes please!  (Tea for me). We  had a leisurely morning enjoying some people-watching from our floor to ceiling windows including being able to see into a dance studio directly across the street from us.  Breakfast came in the form of a bacon, cheese and egg croissant, a Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese Sandwich, fresh fruit and grapefruit soda from the deli just around the corner.  A perfect breakfast for counteracting our tequila fueled evening.

When we were finally ready, we decided to take a taxi to The Met as it was a rainy day.  Upon our arrival there,  we discovered that everyone else had the same idea and the line snaked around the side of the building.  We almost decided to head off elsewhere but then decided to tough it out for 45 minutes in the pouring rain and we were glad we did.

Our primary interest in going was to see the Costume Institute’s current exhibit, Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion, a wonderful display of classic pieces from all the iconic designers from over the years.  A real feast for the eyes and amazing to see the detailed artistry of the clothing.

After all the beautiful clothes we stopped by to see some of the Impressionists, along with a gazillion other people.

Our final stop was an exhibit called “Beyond Caravaggio” a fabulous display of the works of artist  Valentin de Boulogne, the greatest French follower of Caravaggio’s who had never had his work in a solo exhibit.

In need of sustenance, we headed to the giant cafeteria in search of food and wine.  Mini bottles of Sauvignon Blanc, Gouda and Apple sandwiches on a Nut and Raisin bread, Chicken Salad and chips did the trick.

Getting out of the Met is a challenge, it’s like a never ending maze but we finally did it and hopped into a taxi.  Our driver was an amiable Russian Jew who was ready to chat. As we made the journey down Fifth Avenue he told us about his 30 years here in what he described as “the greatest country in the world”.  He was excited about the upcoming Trump presidency and did not hold back with his feelings about Hillary Clinton.  He then discussed 9/11 and shared some very powerful photos of that day, taken by himself and his passenger.  He says he has never been able to work again on that date and stays home in a mini depression refusing to watch any coverage of it.  We talked about where we were that day when it happened.  I was at home, 5 months pregnant with Rory, wondering what kind of world I was bringing a child in to.

After hearing his account of that day, I rolled down the window and enjoyed the lights, sights and sounds of this most famous Avenue, soaking up the energy of the traffic, shoppers and marveling at the dwindling light.  As we got out of the taxi, the sky was finally starting to clear and the setting sun cast a warm glow over the skyscrapers.

 

It was then declared that it was time for a martini which we enjoyed in our hotel bar before retrieving our luggage.  Kerry and Robin had classic dirty vodka martinis and Cherry and I went with the bartenders recommendation of  vodka with a dash of sweet vermouth.  So good.

 

Next up was a taxi ride down to the Financial District to our new home for the next 4 nights, Keju and Marc’s gorgeous apartment.  Keju welcomed us with prosecco and snacks and we got to meet our charge for the next few days, Ling Chao.  After enjoying our bubbly, we headed down to South Street Seaport to Barbulu for a fantastic Italian dinner.  Charcuterie and cheese with a Sauvignon Blanc to start, then pasta dishes that included bolognese, Gorgonzola and walnut, Scallops and asparagus with a white wine butter sauce and a shrimp and arugula dish.  All amazing, and we switched to a lovely Sangiovese to accompany them.  Two tiramisu and some coffee rendered us completely full.  We finished off our evening by walking around the neighborhood then went up to the rooftop terrace of the apartment building to see the city lights.  Beautiful!  Back at the apartment, Keju shared some Canadian Ice Wine that his friends had given him, we chatted some more then all collapsed into a carb coma.  A great day.

 

NYC!

 

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So this time last year, I headed to Montreal and Quebec City by myself for what was to pretty much be a next-chapter-of-life – defining trip for me.  It was spectacular and I loved every minute of it.  It’s looking like the post Christmas week is my week to myself without the boys.  After having a lovely Christmas with them, they have headed to Florida with Steve, and this year, I had the wonderful opportunity, along with my mother and two friends Robin and Kerry, to come to New York City for five nights.  Our dear friends Keju and Marc are heading out of town for New Year’s weekend and were in need of a dog sitter at their lovely apartment in the Financial District.  Don’t have to ask me twice!  We elected to arrive early and so here we are tonight in Midtown Manhattan.

We took the train from Petersburg and Cherry treated us to Business Class.  What a civilized way to travel!  The train staff were delightful and the train was on time.  Robin took the train from Lynchburg and arrived at Penn Station less than half an hour after us, which allowed us to order large glasses of not so great and overly priced wine at the first and last chain restaurant we will go to whilst here.  It was convenient!!

After fortifying ourselves with drinks and appetizers, we headed down the few blocks to the Executive Hotel Le Soleil, a delightful modern hotel on W. 35th St.  After checking in and freshening up, we headed up Fifth Avenue towards Rockerfeller Plaza.  On our way, we marveled at the fabulous displays of lights at Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue.  The latter was spectacular and was pretty much an on going show that ran every 15 minutes.  When we reached our destination after battling the throngs, we were not disappointed and it was fabulous to see the Christmas tree and ice rink in person.

 

 

Hunger pulled us away and we headed to my pick for this evening, a place that unfortunately plenty of other people had picked too.  The wait was an hour and the accommodation in the bar was packed so off we went elsewhere.  We had spotted a tequila bar opposite the hotel so headed to Habanero Blues where we enjoyed expensive margaritas, delicious guacamole and Ceviche.  Kerry was the most adventurous of us, ordering first a Habanero Margarita which was incredibly spicy followed by a Mezican, made with Mezcal.  Service was somewhat slow from the front of house staff but when we made it to the bar, our bartender was delightful and to our surprise, offered us shots of tequila to thank us for being “so nice and so patient”.  We accepted the compensation and fueled with more tequila than any of us normally drink, we went in search of French fries….

Our hotel had a speak easy bar attached to it and here we enjoyed beef brisket sliders, the much needed extra salty French fries, delicious knotted warm garlic bread served with Mozzarella wrapped ricotta and a tomato jelly and a gorgeous flatbread topped with pancetta, melted leeks and much gooey cheese.  Washed down with a glass of wine, the four of us were ready for bed by 10pm!